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E-10 will not drive

 
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Art Marquardt



Joined: 20 Nov 2005
Posts: 99
Location: 625 N25th st Sheboygan,Wisconsin

PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:23 pm    Post subject: E-10 will not drive Reply with quote

Tom et al:

My E-10 is dead in the water. It had some jerking on accleration in the past but that came and went. Today I backed out of the garage but could not go forward after a bit I couldn't go in reverse either. After pushing it back in the garage I started to check things out the ignition modules relays do not seem to be coming on. They appear to have 13.5 volts to both measuring between the single white wire and the grey wire. The forward reverse switch checks out for resistance. It seems strange that both should go out together all of a sudden. What am I missing are there any other things that can be checked.
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MajorWilson



Joined: 26 Sep 2005
Posts: 236
Location: Peoria, AZ

PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Art, try disconnecting just one motor and see if it will go. Then try the other motor. They will run individually and I doubt it is a controller problem if both controllers fail to run. It would be very unlikely both would fail at once. If that doesn't work then you may have another problem all together.

It could be something in the control box on the center console since you are getting basic power to the controllers.

One other possibility is an overvoltage problem. Remember that your controllers were initially set for a 120v nicad system and if my memory serves me, you are using them at a 144v nominal set up. With 120v nicad system the max voltage would be about 156v. With your 144v set up you can easily exceed the max voltage on the controllers right after a charge. When they set up the controllers at a 120v system, they give them some fudge factor so you have probably been getting away with the extra voltage. If this happens right after a charge then I would suspect the overvoltage problem. I guess one way to check that out is to turn on the lights and heater for a bit and run the voltage down a little to see if after you've burned off some power the controllers kick in.

Jeff

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Jeff Wilson
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Plug in the cord... not the pump!
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ThomasHudson
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Joined: 26 Sep 2005
Posts: 130
Location: Port Washington WI

PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Jeff, try turning on the heater and high beams and see if the voltage drop allows the controllers to start up. I have to admit, it's suspicious that neither one works -- It indicates to me that there's one common thing causing them to fail. I would have initially thought the 12V or ground connection to the ignition boxes would be it as it was in Jeff's case but if that's been ruled out.

As for reprogramming the controllers, I apologize that I haven't gotten that ready to go yet -- It's been really busy around here for the last few weeks, but I got my spare controller out and the interface box and will try to get that cable built up for it ASAP, and test it out. It's starting to look like next week will be a good time for me to test the connection and software (this weekend we have visitors staying with us, so it won't happen until they leave...)

If this does turn out to be a voltage thing, hang on a bit longer and we'll get those controllers reprogrammed.

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Art Marquardt



Joined: 20 Nov 2005
Posts: 99
Location: 625 N25th st Sheboygan,Wisconsin

PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply your Last Reply with quote

Tom& Jeff:

Thanks your last, have complied, with drop of four amphours it operated.
Yet even then the relays didn't click audibly with every thing turned off to reduce noise need better diagnostics. From my reading it appears there are two sets of relays one set in the ignition modules and one set in the controllers. Or, are they one and the same. Previously when the vehicle was fully charged to 164VN.L. it worked it is now working at 144Vnom. under load. It seems like it needs to be played with and it works if it is a voltage problem it is on the hairy edge. because it comes and goes. Certainly reprogramming will eliminate any errors in that area if overvoltage is the problem. Still it is very inconsistant. I will try to replicate and solve the problem several times to see if your suggestion works consistantly. All we can do is keep offering sacrifices and hope it's magic power returns.
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ThomasHudson
Site Admin


Joined: 26 Sep 2005
Posts: 130
Location: Port Washington WI

PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll put the interface box on top priority, Art. That's not a safe situation -- If you regen and the regen takes the voltage above the controller cutoff point, you'll stop operating. Not good when you're on the road...
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